Fashion Through History: How tradition, culture and technology shape design
CHANDIGARH | PEN OF DEMOCRACY
By: Kanchan Mehta
M.A. Fashion Designing, Instructor, Chaudhary Devi Lal University, Sirsa
Fashion is not merely a means of wearing beautiful or attractive clothes. It is also a reflection of a society’s culture, lifestyle, economic conditions and historical development. Across different periods, changes in clothing have been shaped by patterns of living, religious beliefs, technological progress and social circumstances. For students of fashion designing, understanding this history is essential because it helps them study traditional garments, craft techniques and design ideas while finding inspiration for new interpretations in contemporary fashion.
India’s Ancient Textile Traditions
India has one of the world’s oldest and richest textile traditions. Sculptures and archaeological evidence associated with the Indus Valley Civilisation indicate the use of cotton textiles. During the Vedic period, draped garments were widely used. Men commonly wore forms of the dhoti and upper cloth, while women used unstitched garments resembling the sari. Natural dyes and hand-crafted patterns formed an important part of textile practices of the period.
During the Mauryan and Gupta periods, Indian clothing became increasingly artistic and decorative. Fine cotton, silk, jewellery and embroidered textiles gained prominence. Clothing also reflected social distinctions, with visible differences between royal attire and garments worn by ordinary people. India’s textile trade expanded beyond its borders, while Indian muslin, silk and dyed fabrics became valued in overseas markets.
EDITORIAL NOTE
For a fashion student, history is not simply a record of old clothes. It is a design resource that explains how materials, techniques, culture and society influence what people wear.
The Mughal Influence on Indian Fashion
The medieval period brought significant changes to Indian dress, particularly under Mughal influence. Garments and styles such as the jama, angarkha, churidar pyjama, salwar, kameez, sherwani and lehenga acquired new identities and forms. Techniques including zari, zardozi, brocade and fine embroidery became increasingly prominent.
The interaction between Mughal aesthetics and Indian traditions created a distinctive clothing culture. Its influence remains visible in contemporary Indian wedding and festive wear, where historic silhouettes, embroidery and surface ornamentation continue to be reinterpreted by designers.
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Colonial Period, Western Influence and Khadi
During British rule, Western clothing increasingly influenced Indian dress. Trousers, shirts, coats and suits became common among men, while women’s clothing incorporated blouses, petticoats and modern stitching techniques. Yet the freedom movement gave traditional textile production a powerful new meaning. Khadi came to represent self-reliance and national pride, making clothing part of a larger social and political expression.
After Independence, Indian fashion increasingly developed through a dialogue between traditional crafts and modern design. Designers began to reinterpret indigenous textiles, embroidery, silhouettes and techniques for changing lifestyles and new markets.
How Western Fashion Evolved
Western fashion has also undergone continuous transformation. In ancient Greece and Rome, loose garments wrapped around the body were widely worn. During medieval Europe, clothing was closely associated with social status. The Renaissance introduced elaborate garments, heavier fabrics, wide sleeves, decorative gowns and carefully structured silhouettes.
The Industrial Revolution transformed fashion by making sewing machines and large-scale textile production possible. Clothing could increasingly be manufactured in greater quantities, allowing fashion to reach wider sections of society. This industrial change laid important foundations for the modern ready-to-wear industry.
Twentieth-Century Change and the Rise of Modern Fashion
The twentieth century brought rapid changes to Western dress. Women’s clothing increasingly incorporated practical and comfortable forms, while skirts, trousers and ready-made garments became more common. World wars, cinema, music, youth culture and influential designers all contributed to changing fashion preferences.
In the twenty-first century, globalisation, social media, digital design and online shopping have further reduced the distance between Indian and Western fashion. Ideas now travel rapidly across markets, and designers can draw inspiration from multiple cultural traditions while creating contemporary collections.
Why Fashion History Matters to Today’s Designers
Today’s fashion is increasingly a meeting point between tradition and modernity. Designers revisit historic colours, motifs, embroidery, silhouettes and textile practices and reinterpret them for contemporary consumers. This process demonstrates that innovation does not necessarily mean abandoning the past; it can also mean understanding the past deeply enough to create something new.
KEY TAKEAWAYS
• Fashion reflects culture, society, technology and economic change.
• India’s textile heritage spans ancient cotton traditions, silk, embroidery and global trade.
• Mughal, colonial and post-Independence influences helped shape modern Indian dress.
• Industrialisation transformed Western fashion and expanded ready-to-wear clothing.
• Digital technology and globalisation are accelerating cross-cultural fashion exchange.
• Fashion history gives students a foundation for creative and culturally informed design.
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